Scotland is often generalised as being the Highlands and the Lowlands. But actually, there is just as stark a divide between the East and West. For those looking to book a walking holiday in West Highland Way, it’s worth learning about because the experience can differ quite dramatically.
*This is a collaborative post.
*This is a collaborative post. Rainfall and the rain shadow
The biggest difference is the climate, which is surprising given that there aren’t many miles between the two coasts. The winds in Scotland blow from the south-west – it comes from the Atlantic Ocean, which brings with it moisture. When this air hits the high peaks of the West Highlands, it rises, cools, and dumps the majority of its rain. Yes, it rains a lot, but it is precisely what makes the West so spectacular – you get waterfalls and very green glens.
By the time these winds reach the East, they have lost a lot of their moisture. This creates a “rain shadow” effect. Areas like the Lothians, the Borders, and the Moray Firth are much drier than their western counterparts. On a walking holiday in the East, you still get plenty of grey skies, but the soaking Atlantic drizzle is less relentless.
The wind and the midge factor
The West’s damp climate creates the perfect breeding ground for Scotland’s most ubiquitous predator: the Highland midge. On the West Highland Way, particularly near Loch Lomond and across Rannoch Moor, midges can be ferocious from late May to September. The Isle of Skye is also renowned for them, but only when the wind drops.
But wind is a double-edged sword, of course. While it keeps the midges at bay, the Atlantic gales on exposed ridges like the Devil’s Staircase or the Trotternish Ridge on Skye can be physically exhausting to walk through. The east tends to suffer less from these specific midge clouds, partly because of the drier ground. While not midge-free by any stretch, it’s usually a safer bet.
Comparing the terrain
The terrain in the west is very ancient and very volatile. It has steep ascents and rocky scrambles. It requires strong knees and a head for heights.
The East is more about endurance and horizons. The landscape here rolls more rather than spikes. A perfect example of this is St Cuthbert’s Way, a cross-border route that really manages to capture the eastern walking experience. Unlike the enclosed glens of the West Highland Way, this route is all about open air in the expansive Cheviot Hills. The terrain is softer, less rocky, and more grassy.
Where the west ends abruptly at sea cliffs, the east tends to transition more gently into vast sandy beaches and tidal causeways. Both have an incredible culture, of course, and the west has more of a history of Gaelic settlers (then Viking), while the east has a long history of agriculture and wealth, with plenty of Anglian influence. The difference, for example, can be seen in comparing St Andrews with Oban.
It’s perhaps an oversimplification, but you want drama and adrenaline and don’t mind the wet, go west. If you want medieval towns and vast open hills that are more gentle, head east. While there isn’t so much of a middle ground, the likes of Stirling offer 1-2 hours access into both sides and has a long history of battles with the English because of this strategic positioning.
*This is a collaborative post. This post has been pre-written.
